Two of the basic requirements in creating a home for your
reptilian pal are heat and a reptile-friendly container.
Aquariums, custom cages, and wooden boxes are all good places
for your reptilian friend to call home. The easiest lining for
the cages of many reptiles is newspaper-it's easy to change and
easy to tell when it's wet. Turtles need a more humid lining,
such as soil mixed with peat moss. Geckos will like smooth
aquarium stones in the bottom of the cage. Snakes will
appreciate rocks to facilitate shedding, and iguanas and snakes
both will like a hardwood driftwood branch for climbing. All
linings should be changed regularly, with feces removed often.
"Hide boxes" (which function exactly as their name implies)
provide a secure, out-of-sight place for rest and relaxation in
your reptile's home. A hide box should be a shallow plastic
container with a hole cut in the side and filled with one to two
inches (depending on your friend's size) of damp vermiculite or
moss. Hide boxes can double as nesting areas for some
species-your veterinarian can tell you whether you'll need one
for yours.
The second component of building your pet's personal universe is
to create a sun-of sorts. Reptiles depend on the air temperature
to maintain their body heat. Room temperature is too cold for
most reptiles, so you'll need to warm the cage environment as
well as provide hot spots for basking (see Your Own Personal
Sun). Most temperate (as opposed to desert or tropical) reptiles
will appreciate air that's 75 to 80F, and the only way to be
sure you are providing adequate heat is to use a
thermometer-preferably of the digital, indoor/outdoor,
minimum/maximum type.
But regulating the temperature of your reptilian companion's
environment means walking a fine line in determining their
needs. If given the chance, reptiles will actually burn
themselves when on, under, or around a direct heat source. Keep
heat sources out of the cage if possible, and never place a cage
or aquarium in direct sunlight without shade. In just ten
minutes your friendly, fur-challenged friend can go from happy
to heatstroke. And if your heat source must be in the cage, bear
in mind that if it's too hot to rest your hand on, it's
definitely too hot for your reptilian friend.
Water, water everywhere
Denizens of desert, tropic, and temperate environments alike
need water, and plenty of it, to survive. In addition to
drinking it, some need to periodically soak to keep their scaly
bodies sufficiently moist. Ensure that your reptile's personal
swimming area is shallow enough that he won't drown and that it
is kept clean from food residue and feces. The cage itself
should have a relative humidity of 50 percent for desert
species, 60-75 percent for temperate species, and 80-90 percent
for tropical species. Some parts of the country are humid enough
that additional humidity isn't necessary. If you do need to
create a little rain, misting the cage, or damp moss or
vermiculite in the hide box should do the trick. With any method
of humidifying, good air circulation is always important, and
ultrasonic humidifiers allow less bacteria buildup than those of
the steam variety.
Big bad Salmonella
You know you can get Salmonella from raw chicken or eggs, but a
lesser-known fact is that most (if not all) reptiles are
carriers of the bacteria. Salmonella is easily spread through
bathtubs, hands, carpet, and clothing. For safety's sake your
green pets should not be allowed to roam free. In most people,
Salmonella exposure causes no problems, but in certain cases it
can be quite dangerous-even fatal. People at serious risk for
Salmonella include children under age five (especially infants),
pregnant women, and people with weakened immune systems. Always
wash your hands after handling your reptile, and do not eat or
put anything into your mouth while handling your pet. That also
means that reptiles should be kept out of the kitchen, and
kitchen sinks or infant bathing areas should not be used to
bathe reptiles, their cages, or their dishes.
The doctor is in
An annual checkup allows your veterinarian to monitor your
reptile for chronic nutritional deficiencies, one of the most
common problems facing our green friends in captivity. Ensure
that your reptile's diet is well-balanced and varied, and check
with the doctor for specifics on feeding. Your veterinarian can
also advise you on hibernation-many temperate snakes and turtles
have a natural inclination to take a long winter's nap. Usually
this requires a gradual reduction of food, seclusion in a
darkened, cool area, and monitoring on your part to ensure your
pet's metabolism is low enough that he is not slowly starving to
death.
Your own personal sun
No matter what the housing situation you set up for your
reptile, you will need to create heat. Here are several options.
Space heaters---Warm the entire room or closet.
Hot tape, heating pads---Provide localized spots of heat. Be
careful reptiles are not allowed to come in direct contact with
these, as they will burn the skin.
Incandescent or infrared light bulbs---Especially appropriate
for reptiles that bask in the sun. Mount in the center of the
ceiling and away from the sides, or even outside of the cage.
Continuous light exposure can be stressful, so use infrared,
red, or blue lights at night (even these should be mounted away
from the reptile's reach).
Hot rocks, sizzle stones---Not generally recommended, as they do
not warm the air and may cause your reptile to spend all its
time on the rock, burning itself.
